The boat is anchored
offshore. To get to it, I have to ambulate on the floating dock. Why can’t they
just build solid normal docks with normal wood and normal bolts like normal
people? Why does everything have to float and sway and bob and bounce? This Carpet
of Death is made up of hundreds of floating plastic cubes, all tied together,
each piece bobbing and swaying at its own rhythm. I look in dismay at the hundred
feet of pitching, rolling, and heaving plastic; the perverted creation of a fiendish
mind. Swimming the English
Channel would be easier, except that I’m not
allowed to get my foot wet.
Not knowing exactly how to get on this
diabolical thing, I poke at it with a crutch, hoping against all odds to make
it disappear. Instead, a gorgeous young Adonis appears next to me and offers to
help me across. Hey hey! I whack the dock a few more times in an attempt to
produce more apparitions, but it seems that one gorgeous young god is my quota
for the day.
I step on the dock. Adonis takes hold of my left arm. I quickly
develop another routine: crutch, swing, and freeze in terror; crutch, swing,
and swear like a sailor.
The going is slow and
horrifying. Everything is moving and swaying like a magnitude fifty-two
earthquake. I try repeating my gangway mantra from the cruise ship. It’s not
helping. Neither is Adonis. I’m sure he means well, but he’s more of a
hindrance than anything. He’s standing beside me on the very edge of the dock,
pulling on my arm as if that’s going to do anything other than throw me off
balance. He’s not thinking that it’s attached to the rest of me and if he pulls
too hard, the whole Marie and caboodle is going to topple over the side, my air
cast becoming a floatation device against its will.
By the time we reach the
halfway point, I feel seasick and am ready to pummel Adonis with my crutch in
an effort to make him stop saying, “Lady, it’s easy, don’t be scared.” I hate
Adonis, I hate the boat, and I hate the man who invented plastic. I keep
repeating that as my new mantra, over and over.
By sheer strength of will,
and because I have no other choice, I ultimately reach the dang boat. This had
better be worth it. We better see giant moray eels attacking sharks, octopuses
inking clouds of black goo, and hungry turtles eating whales. I’m in that kind
of a mood, one which is not improved by the upcoming task of boarding the
bobbing boat from the bobbing dock, both totally unsynchronized with each
other. If you remember, esteemed reader, I’ve been in this position before,
back on the Philae Island motorboat. This time, however, there is no kind soul
extending a helpful hand. There’s just Adonis and me.
Somehow, I have no idea how,
I get in the boat. I suspect Adonis may have shoved me in, but in my relief at
reaching the relative safety of the boat, I didn’t really notice. With the
proverbial black cloud hovering over my head, I choose a seat and park my
bottom in it for the next two hours. If only this cloud could generate
lightning bolts, I’d hurl a few at Adonis.
The boat departs and the
sandy bottom of the beach gives way to the splendours of the reef. Contrary to
my expectations, we don’t see any underwater carnage. Through the wide glass
bottom, we see beautiful coral formations and colourful fish, including a
stupid blue and yellow oddity which swims upside down and tries to eat the
underside of the boat.
We catch a glance of a moray
eel, lurking amid coral branches. It just sits there, looking mean and nasty, a
creature only its mother could find attractive. Below a pair of big buggy eyes,
its mouth, edged with sharp fang-like teeth, seems wider than its entire face,
and where you’d expect nostrils, as on a human face, there are these funny
little tubes. It resembles a mix between a snake, a dragon, and a grade-school
teacher I once had, especially the nostril tubes.
Some people eat moray eels.
I know because I’ve seen recipes for it. I don’t understand. How can such a
malicious thing be comestible? No matter how much you cook or deep-fry it, or
how much hummus you pile on top of it, it would still be like eating Evil
Incarnate. I mentally revise my food rule and add evil foodstuffs to the list
of non-consumables.
We continue on and visit
other regions of the reef, spying on the finned denizens of the deep, going
about their daily glub-glub routines, swimming around the wide variety of
coral, eating bits of lord knows what, and checking out the real estate for
potential hiding places or sources of food. Of the different coral formations,
there are big convoluted ones that look like brains, short stubby-fingered
ones, others looking like lacy fans and even some that resemble round exploding
fireworks. Life on the reef appears totally oblivious to us air-breathing
peeping Toms.
All, except the blue and
yellow moron who’s still trying to sink us by eating his way into the boat
through the glass. It’s quite laughable really. Now, if it were Quasimodo the
Eel trying the same trick, it would be a different matter altogether. With
those sharp teeth, massive jaw, and vicious disposition, I have no doubt that
he could inflict major damage to the boat’s hull.
Midway through the tour, the
captain stops the boat and drops anchor. It’s time for a refreshment break. We
sip our colas, and enjoy the wonderful view, both below and above the
waterline. The deep sapphire blue sea, teeming with life, with the sun sparkling
brilliantly on its surface, is a sight to behold. My mood has improved
drastically.
Only too quickly the tour
ends, and we’re back at the Dock of Despair. Adonis the Useless is remarkably
absent, probably hiding somewhere until I’ve left the boat, the beach, or the
planet, for all I know. Another young man offers to help. I give him a dubious
look, mentally debating if I should accept his offer, and in the end, I decide
to take a chance with him. He’s not as handsome as Adonis, and therefore, he’s
bound to be more useful. Yes, I know this way of thinking is not logical, but I
need a reason to use an escort since I’ve decided that, should I tip over the
side, I’m taking a hostage with me.
Swaying on the floating
plastic cubes, I make my way, slowly and painstakingly, back to the shore,
resigned to getting wet at one point or another. The task is made somewhat more
difficult by the newly arrived tourists, sitting on the dock, their feet
dangling in the surf, their butts (some of them rather large) taking up space
on a surface that is already almost too narrow to accommodate me, my hostage,
and Beatrice and Matilda.
I know what you’re thinking.
Who the heck are Beatrice and Matilda?
Well, I’ve named the crutches. I figure that since they’ve shouldered so much
of my burden this past fortnight, and especially today, they deserve to be
recognized as more than just anonymous metal and plastic poles. They deserve to
be recognized as individuals, as my active supporters in the quest for the Holy
Grail.
Throughout the trip, they’ve
never let me down, never complained when I threatened to use them as weapons,
never even protested when I let them take the rap for the pinging sound of the
safety pins on my cast, back on the cruise ship. They’ve been there for me all
along. They must be acknowledged, honoured even. They deserve names.
Even now, as I try to
manoeuvre around the butts on the dock, Matilda gives me permission to use her
to poke the protruding bottoms in order to induce movement and clear some
space. Beatrice, the more reserved and timid of the two, suggests trying the
crab-walk first, before resorting to poking. I take Beatrice’s suggestion and
proceed sideways, around the foot-dangling squatters who, by the way, seem
completely indifferent to my predicament. If I weren’t so focussed on not
getting launched into the wet blue scenery, I would have let Matilda have her
fun, just for the sake of it.
Surprisingly enough, I reach
the end of the dock without having taken an impromptu bath. My happiness at
reaching the beach moisture-free quickly dissipates as I actually reach the
beach. Oh crap! I’d almost forgotten the Beach of Torment. Just as I feel my
sanity packing its bags and calling for a taxi, I spot a beacon of hope: a
little hut-like structure sporting a beer sign, inviting me from across the
Wretched Desert.
Fixing my eyes on it, I sink, gorilla walk,
yank on crutches, and repeat until I reach the beer sanctuary. Most people
don’t equate beer brewing with Egypt, but throughout pharaonic history, beer
and wine were staples of the Egyptians’ diet. Continuing the tradition, Egypt
produces many brands of quite respectable beer. Sitting in a non-pitching,
non-bobbing, and non-swaying chair, I enjoy a cold, smooth glass of Stella,
Egypt’s most famous brand. I’m not usually a beer drinker, but after this
afternoon’s taxing excursion, it’s like sipping nectar of the gods—Adonis not
included.
Fully restored, I spend the
rest of the day lounging around the pool and removing the two metric tons of accumulated
sand from my cast. There’s enough there to build a sand castle with turrets and
dungeons should I be so inclined. I forgo erecting the castle, and instead,
make a tiny human figure out of a couple of twigs, name it Adonis, and bury it
in the pile of sand, feeling childish but vindicated.
When I arrive at the
restaurant, the next morning, my wish has been granted and I’m greeted by the
same young waiter from the day before. He seats me at a table, brings me some
coffee, and swiftly disappears. Hoping that he’ll help me again with the
hunting and gathering of the breakfast, I wait for him to come back so that we
can browse the buffet in tandem. In the meantime, I try to decide what I’m in
the mood to eat. Perhaps an omelette would be nice, or maybe cereal with a
banana, or even some pancakes would certainly hit the spot. I see another
patron walking back from the buffet with French toast on his plate. Yes, that’s
it. I’ll have French toast.
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