Upon reaching the town of
Esna, we go through locks. Having been raised in Montreal right near the St-Lawrence
Seaway, I’m familiar with the yo-yoing process involved. The boat enters the
lock, the doors close, the water level goes up or down depending on the
direction of sailing, and with any luck, the boat follows.
In this case, since we’re
headed south to Upper Egypt, the water level is raised, and the boat,
passengers, crew, and towel sculptures all come along. Upper Egypt is southern
Egypt, and Lower Egypt is northern Egypt although, looking at a map, you’d
think it’s the reverse. The reason is that the Nile flows northward.
The Nile, the longest river
in the world, actually starts off as two separate rivers, the White Nile and
the Blue Nile, originating from Rwanda and Ethiopia, respectively. These two
waterways meet, exchange pleasantries, and join forces near the city of
Khartoum, the capital of Sudan. From there, the Nile continues its swift northward
course, flowing through the sands of Egypt, bringing life-giving water and
fertile soil to city after desert city. After passing through Cairo, it gets
tired—who wouldn’t, after covering over six thousand kilometres—and branches
off into several smaller rivers, resembling the limbs of a tree and becoming
what is known as the Nile Delta. Then, this whole mess of small streams and
rivers empties itself into the Mediterranean for the benefit of fish, algae,
and Papa Smurf impersonators.
So, we’re going down south,
up the river; Upper Egypt, ready or not, here I come.
In ancient times, there was
no official Middle Egypt for, I suppose, there was not much there other than
desert and river; the population tended to congregate either in the North or
the South. Wars and struggles for power over the millennia were typically between
Upper and Lower Egypt, notwithstanding invasions by the Hittites, the
Macedonians, or the Romans. That’s why the pharaoh was hailed as the King of
Upper and Lower Egypt, signifying a unified country.
Now, Middle Egypt is, well,
everything in the middle. Like the Middle East. But wait. What is the Middle
East in the middle of? Eastern East and Western East? Enquiring minds are back
in action, so much so, that I decide to brush up on the ancient history of
Egypt and get my kingdoms straightened out.
With such a long history,
scholars have divided it into periods and kingdoms which can be a tad confusing
when trying to figure out who lived when, who did what when, and who wanted to
kill who when. So, here’s my really really really condensed version of a really
really really long history.
Around 5500 B.C., the hunters and gatherers, a nomadic gang who went
around hunting and gathering food all around the Nile valley, finally decide
where they want to stay, and a bunch of them settle in Lower Egypt, and a bunch
in Upper Egypt. Fast forward to 3400 B.C., the bunches have grown and become communities, each
with their own king. A century or two later, someone starts doodling, giving
rise to the development of hieroglyphs.
Then, in 3100 B.C., King Narmer of Upper Egypt decides to unify the two
bunches, thus ending the Predynastic Period and starting the Early Dynastic
Period with the first king of the First Dynasty listed as Menes. It’s debated
as to whether Narmer and Menes were two different dudes, or one and the same. I
don’t know about you, but Menes sounds Greek to me. I’m thinking, same guy, different name, a ploy we’ve seen
before. Regardless, the dynastic age has begun.
The Old Kingdom comes into
being with the introduction of the Third Dynasty in 2686 B.C., and spans about five hundred years and four
dynasties. I hear your question, “What’s a dynasty?” Well, it’s a group of
kings that can sometimes be linked by lineage or by where the country’s capital
is situated, as it tended to move from place to place depending on who was
running the show. Weird, isn’t it? I
guess this is what you’d call a portable capital! In ancient Egypt, many cities
claimed this honour. Memphis (present day Cairo), Thebes (Luxor), Akhetaten
(Tell El Amarna, somewhere between Thebes and Memphis), and Alexandria, to name
just a few, have all been capital cities at one time or another.
Anyway, let’s get back to
our kingdoms. For the first part of the Old Kingdom—the pyramid age—the country
prospers and evolves culturally and technologically. Unfortunately, starting in
the Fifth Dynasty, the good times stop rolling. The power of the regional
governors increases and that of the king decreases, resulting in civil unrest,
and undoubtedly, uncivilized behaviour. During the Sixth Dynasty, droughts and
famines join the uncivilized behaviour and the country enters one big period of
instability: The First Intermediate Period.
Now we start a hundred years
of mucky muck. People from outside Egypt are trying to invade, people inside
Egypt are fighting amongst themselves, and the country uses up more kings than ants
at a picnic. They go through four dynasties’ worth of kings in just over a
century. Mind you, at times, there are kings in Upper Egypt ruling at the same
time as kings in Lower Egypt—like two people talking at the same time—and so,
at that rate, it’s not surprising that they speed through to the end of the Tenth
Dynasty before they clean up their act.
The Pharaoh Montuhotep,
founder of Dynasty XI, is credited with reuniting the country and ushering in
the Middle Kingdom in 2055 B.C. With the pharaoh’s butt firmly glued to the throne,
Egypt regains peace and stability. Since everyone has calmed down somewhat,
they now have time to devote to art, literature, and architecture. Everything
is flourishing and so does Egypt by expanding its borders with the annexation
of Nubia. All in all, the good times have come back and stay until the end of
Dynasty XIV in 1650 B.C.
Did you pick up on the clue
when I mentioned the First
Intermediate Period? Uh-huh. When there’s a first, there’s a second, and here
it is: The Second Intermediate Period. And it lasts a hundred years. So what
happens here? The Hyksos happen, that’s what. These guys, an Asiatic group,
come to settle in Lower Egypt in the last part of the Middle Kingdom. Being
sneaky, they install themselves in positions of power, and with the aid of
horses and chariots—the Egyptians didn’t have them before this—and superior
weapons, they gain power and take over the throne of Egypt.
The Hyksos launch Dynasty XV
which lasts pretty much the whole hundred years. At the same time in Upper
Egypt, native Egyptian kings try to maintain power in their own right and start
their own dynasty, the Sixteenth. While the Hyksos do their thing in the North,
the Egyptian kings do theirs in the South. When Dynasty XVII rolls around in
Upper Egypt, the Egyptian kings become more rebellious and aren’t going to take
any crap from “outsiders” any longer. Eventually, they kick the Hyksos out on
their behinds in 1550 B.C., spawning the beginning of the New Kingdom.
The golden age of Egypt has
arrived. The very first thing the Egyptians do is reinforce their borders and
spruce up the army; they want no more of this invading nonsense. For the next five
hundred years, during Dynasties XVIII to XX, Egypt goes through the last great
period of its entire history. The country is stable, and art, literature,
architecture, building, and trade are thriving once again. The great of the
greats are among the pharaohs of this era. Hatshepsut, Tuthmoses III and IV,
Amenhotep III, Akhenaten, Tutankhamun, Ramses II and III; they’re all New
Kingdomers.
There are still battles to
be fought though. Ramses II initiates several military campaigns aimed at the
Hittites, a people of rather obscure origins, which culminate in the famous
Battle of Qadesh. The battle is a stalemate even though both sides claim
victory, and before long, a peace treaty is signed between the two factions.
Egypt continues to do well
until the Twentieth Dynasty, by which time, the pharaoh’s authority starts to
decline again. The high priests gain more power as do foreign entities such as
the Libyans and the “Sea Peoples”, a bunch of guys most likely hailing from the
eastern Mediterranean, Aegean, and Asia Minor regions.
We all know what’s coming,
don’t we? The proverbial hieroglyphs are on the wall (tee hee, I always wanted
to say that). In 1069 B.C., with Egypt fragmented and in tatters, we enter (all
together now!) the Third Intermediate Period. By now, the pharaoh is hanging on
to the throne by his fingernails in the North, and the priests and generals are
huddled in the South, with power over the country split between North and South.
Each side does its own thing. They don’t fight like two-year olds over a toy,
they just seem to co-exist. This lasts throughout the Twenty-first Dynasty.
The first king of Dynasty XXII
reunites the country, but peace only lasts for a short while. Unity is
shattered once again, and as a result, the Twenty-third Dynasty is created in
the Delta region, even before the guys of the Twenty-second’s are done with
their turn on the throne. Both dynasties are running concurrently like
marathoners headed for the finish line. Then, boom, out of nowhere, Dynasty
XXIV springs into action. Everyone wants to rule the world; the country is
sprouting dynasties faster than the spread of dandelions on my front lawn. This
is all for naught. By 747 B.C., the Nubian kings—they had separated from Egypt at
the end of the Twentieth Dynasty—have grown powerful enough in their own right.
They overthrow the divided Egypt with its dysfunctional rulers, put their foot
down, and establish the Twenty-fifth Dynasty.
We are now in the Late
Period and Egypt is in for more ups and downs. Everyone wants a kick at the
can. The Assyrians take over for a while, then it’s the turn of the Persians,
and finally, it’s back in the hands of native Egyptians. At the very end of this
period, with the bases loaded and two outs, the Persians make a comeback, but
only for a brief time.
We’ve now exhausted
Dynasties XXV to XXX. We’re in 332 B.C., and if you’ve read the beginning bits of the book,
you know what happens now. Enter the King of Macedonia in northern Greece:
Alexander the Great. Trumpets. Fanfare. Tra la la. He conquers, he rules, he
dies, the Ptolemies take over, and the whole thing ends with Cleopatra and a
stupid snake. Egypt now belongs to Rome. And that’s that.
After running through five thousand years in a
half-hour, I need a diversion. I look out the window and watch the landscape go
by. It changes frequently from dense foliage and date palms, to small villages
with mud brick buildings and cultivated fields with grazing cattle. I even see
a scarecrow wearing a long blue robe and a turban. The only way I can tell it’s
a scarecrow, and not a live person, is by the three birds perched contentedly
upon it, clearly in love with their humanoid perch. Unquestionably slacking on
the job, this wooden worker needs a performance review at the first
opportunity.
We arrive in Edfu. The
planned excursion today is to the aptly named Edfu Temple, a site that is not
wheelchair or crutch friendly, so I stay on the boat. Yasmin takes my camera
and promises to take as many pictures as my battery will allow and recount
every detail of the visit when they return.
The group departs, and as
soon as their backs are turned, I grab my book and head to the sundeck. Although
I’m very sorry to miss the temple visit, I have an important appointment to keep,
one which has been a long time coming.
Last night, I ceremoniously took
my last antibiotic tablet, and with it, the nasty microbes have been
vanquished. Now on the sundeck, I select a comfy lounge chair, put my feet up—I’m
not aiming for the leg-above-my-head position, not with people around—and order
my very first refreshing gin and tonic from the circulating waiter.
Within minutes, my gentle
waiter comes back, carrying a tray with three glasses balanced on it. Oh no,
surely the Egyptian Food Principle does not extend to alcoholic beverages!
I blow a sigh of relief as
the waiter deposits the one drink on my side table and carries the other two over
to a nearby couple. Phew! I can handle one gin and tonic, but three would have
sent me rolling along the deck, bounding into guardrails like a crazy ball bearing
on a tilting maze puzzle.
I take a sip. Heavenly! I
relax. I read my book. As expected, a cocktail is excellent for unwinding and enjoying
an afternoon in the sun. And bad for gluing mummy wrappings. Read on, esteemed
reader, read on.
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